retractable top problems

[Paul Philip]

I purchased a 58 retractable that the previous two owners couldn't get the top up.After much work the top came up but would not be level.Adjusting the two jack screws helped some but I notice the rod between the two was slightly bent and would give during the operation.Has anyone beefed this rod up to make it more stable?Any advice would be appreciated.I'm also waiting for my friend JJ to post a picture on re-wiring the top . Paul in Ohio

[Dave Owens]

Paul,

My advise for now until the forum catches on is to contact one of these club technical advisers. Their names and contact information can be found on our home page under the Contact Us tab. Wayne or Dave should be able to walk you through what to check over the phone. Many of the root cause issues with the top are structural related.

Dave

[AdviserDave]

I purchased a 58 retractable that the previous two owners couldn't get the top up.After much work the top came up but would not be level.Adjusting the two jack screws helped some but I notice the rod between the two was slightly bent and would give during the operation.Has anyone beefed this rod up to make it more stable?Any advice would be appreciated.I'm also waiting for my friend JJ to post a picture on re-wiring the top . Paul in Ohio


Hi Paul,
It sounds to me that you've got a structure problem of some kind caused by rust or prior collision damage. When the torsion bar that conects the two "horse shoes" bends it means one side is doing more work than the other. The most common cause is the package tray corners on the roof getting weak. Don't try to beef up the bar it won't work and will only make the problem worse. A new roof wiring harness can be purchased from FRP. There are so many different things to check. I suggest you call me on the phone and we can then get to the bottom of things. I'm listed in the front page of the roster.
Dave

[Paul Philip]

9Dave It was good talking to you on the phone and I appreciate all the help you can provide.I'm going to try to post a picture of the operating switches for the top so the group can see what I'm up against.I feel I have this part fixed as original.I do have the top going up and down with the switch but not locking into the locks properly.After talking with Dave this may be a structural problem to check out first.

[Paul Philip]

The left rear corner had a rust problem in the past and the roof lift jack bracket had been attached to new metal.It looks like it had been done properly but are there any measurments available to varify the correct location? I'm also going to do the reinforcement package tray repair and need to take the rear window out.The trim that fits into the seal is missing,the seal is soft and would like to take it out for possible re-use.Are there any tips on doing this.I've taken windows out before by cutting the seal.Thanks for any help.

[fliptop58]

Hi Paul, just thought I would comment on your last post. I to have cut the seal from the inside, and found this to be the easiest way to remove the glass. I figure a new seal is only 80 to a 100 bucks and it's cheaper than trying to replace that back glass if you break it. No one is remakeing the rear glass, yet.

[Paul Philip]

I now have the rear window removed by cutting the seal from the exterior.The window slid right out,no problem.The next fix is to reinforce the corners on the package tray.There is no need to remove the rear window to do this but this car is missing the stainless that goes in the seal and has to be removed to replace it.I'm using an article written by Dave Dudt and will need any help from Dave or anyone else that wants to chime in.The tools needed are:(1) A mig welder,(2) A pneumatic cut-off tool,(3) A 3/8" drill and bit,(4) Two flat 1/8"X 3/4"X 6" steel stock.(5) A small bottle jack and several small pieces of wood.

[Paul Philip]

My top now goes up and down with one activating switch. It erects all the way but will not retract all the way into the trunk. I had to do some floor repair below the control brackets and I replaced both bracket supports with new ones as one was crudely made. In order to position them correctly I set the control pins into the start of the adjustable control guides and tact welded the brackets to the new floor. The control pins follow the guides 3/4 the way down the guide and stops. Both sides enter and proceed easily. My question is do I have the roof jacks adjusted wrong not letting the top retract further? I'm going to try to attach some pictures and any help will be appreciated. Paul in Ohio]

[Paul Philip]

I recently have windows 8 on my computer and having trouble posting pictures on this forum about my top problem. If anyone has an opinion for my top situation I have posted the pictures on my web site. You can view them at 57thunderbirds.com and click on the link on the home page side bar (Restoration web sites) to take you to the pictures. Click on page 2 of that site. Paul in Ohio