Seek step by step gas tank removal/installation instructions

[TonyC]

I cannot find step by step gas tank removal and installation instructions. Yes, I have the Shop Manuals. Is there a source for this? I have my new tank and sending unit and carefully drained the gas. I would like to follow instructions from someone experienced in this and not have to "re-invent the wheel" so to speak. Please don't assume I know anything - I'm barely a "shade tree" mechanic and details will not insult me. If there is a link to anything that might help, please post it or send it to me direct.

Thanks in advance,

Tony in New Braunfels, TX tbird_doc@yahoo.com
1957 Skyliner with a rusty ol' tank

[skeehorse]

Tony
It is best if you could get the car on a hoist supported by the frame so the rear axle is hanging as low as possible. The right tail pipe needs to be sepperated and I took the drive shaft out of the way than when you you remove the tank it kind of rolls out to the right side. I also found the new sender a little hard to in stall the oring is little thicker and I had to have help pushing down on it to install lock ring.
Good Luck Jim

[TonyC]

Thanks Jim for your posting. I don't have a hoist but have the back end blocked up where the rear wheels are off the ground. Did you pull your driveshaft out all the way? If so, I have a question about re-installing it again. I pushed my driveshaft forward all the way giving me a little clearance BUT since it goes through the X frame, it has very little wiggle room in any direction. Is that what you did, leave it in place and just push it forward?

Separating the RH tail pipe may be a problem, but I have the clamp nuts & the connection to the RH muffler soaking in penetrating oil (50/50 mix of acetone & auto trans. fluid). Hopefully that will work. I'd like to re-use that pipe.

IF I can't get it loose from the muffler without destroying both, I'm thinking of sawing a section out of that pipe so the tank can clear it. BUT I would need 2 couplings to re-join the 2" tailpipe.

Does anyone have a source for couplings that would have a diameter slightly larger than 2" and would fit over this old pipe AND could be clamped down where they won't leak?

Currently I'm at a stand still with this project, soaking the pipe to muffler connection. Thanks for any suggestions from anyone who has actually done this.

TonyC in New Braunfels, TX '57 Skyliner & '56 T-Bird

Tony
It is best if you could get the car on a hoist supported by the frame so the rear axle is hanging as low as possible. The right tail pipe needs to be sepperated and I took the drive shaft out of the way than when you you remove the tank it kind of rolls out to the right side. I also found the new sender a little hard to in stall the oring is little thicker and I had to have help pushing down on it to install lock ring.
Good Luck Jim

[TonyC]

Thanks Jim for your posting. Separating the RH tail pipe may be a problem, but I have the clamp nuts & the connection to the RH muffler soaking in penetrating oil (50/50 mix of acetone & auto trans. fluid). Hopefully that will work. I'd like to re-use that pipe.

IF I can't get it loose from the muffler without destroying both, I'm thinking of sawing a section out of that pipe so the tank can clear it. BUT I would need 2 couplings to re-join the 2" tailpipe.

Does anyone have a source for couplings that would have a diameter slightly larger than 2" and would fit over this old pipe AND could be clamped down where they won't leak?

TonyC in New Braunfels, TX '57 Skyliner & '56 T-Bird

Please cancel the coupling request. I found a local shop that says they make them all the time.

[TonyC]

Thanks Jim for your posting. I disconnected my driveshaft from the differential and pushed it forward as far as I could giving me a little clearance BUT since it goes through the X frame, it has very little wiggle room in any direction. Would the tank clear the driveshaft this way? OR does it have to be totally pulled out?

If I pull my driveshaft out all the way, then for me to re-install it, can I just insert the front end in slightly, then go to the back and turn the driveshaft to align the marks I made on the differential and the driveshaft, then push it forward and attach it to the yoke? I hope this makes sense.

You're right, I don't know what I'm doing. I don't want to mess up any alignment OR is that impossible? Could I push the driveshaft all the way in, THEN turn it to match the differential yoke?

Thanks for your patience.

Tony C in New Braunfels, TX
'57 Skyliner
'56 T-Bird

[TonyC]

Jim,

My old gas tank is out. How did you install the new "fatter" O ring in your new tank? I boiled it in water to make it more pliable, used petroleum jelly as instructed by the sending unit seller, used a large socket to press it down with all my might (and weight) & cannot seem to push it down far enough to turn the lock ring and secure it. Any advice would be most helpful. Thanks.
Tony in New Braunfels, TX

[TonyC]

ANYONE,

Regarding installing a new gas tank sending unit, the new rubber O ring/gasket that goes in the circular groove in the top of the tank and is right under the round silver top of the sending unit is MUCH thicker than my old one. The diameter is fine. The seller said both the O ring and the metal lock ring are the correct ones that come with the new sending unit. Problem is, I can't compress the thick O ring enough to turn the metal lock ring in place to secure it.

How do I install/compress the new "fatter/thicker" O ring in my new tank? I used petroleum jelly around the O ring bottom as instructed by the sending unit seller, and even resorted to boiling it in water trying to make it more pliable. I used a large 1-1/4 inch socket from my socket set to press the round metal top of the unit down on the O ring with all my might (and weight) but cannot compress it down far enough to turn the lock ring and secure the unit.

Any advice would be most helpful. Thanks.

Tony in New Braunfels, TX

[TonyC]

anyone,

regarding installing a new gas tank sending unit, the new rubber o ring/gasket that goes in the circular groove in the top of the tank and is right under the round silver top of the sending unit is much thicker than my old one. The diameter is fine. The seller said both the o ring and the metal lock ring are the correct ones that come with the new sending unit. Problem is, i can't compress the thick o ring enough to turn the metal lock ring in place to secure it.

How do i install/compress the new "fatter/thicker" o ring in my new tank? I used petroleum jelly around the o ring bottom as instructed by the sending unit seller, and even resorted to boiling it in water trying to make it more pliable. I used a large 1-1/4 inch socket from my socket set to press the round metal top of the unit down on the o ring with all my might (and weight) but cannot compress it down far enough to turn the lock ring and secure the unit.

Any advice would be most helpful. Thanks.

Tony in new braunfels, tx

HERE IS THE FIX!! Go to NAPA and buy their thinner O-ring, part 727-2327. It fits.
Tony in New Braunfels, TX

[Breadbox]

Thank you Tony C. I'm at the same place and finally gave up after about an hour. Going to NAPA right now!